In conversation withAscher
Designer Interview
20·05·2023
Aubade teamed up with jewelry designer Shouq Al-Fulaij to launch Ascher Fine Jewelry in March 2022 and in a few short months, the brand has grown a following for bold jewels that juxtapose brushed black gold with the radiance of white diamonds in a very contemporary way.
When Shouq decided to start her own jewelry brand after a career in fashion, she named it after her favorite, geometric diamond cut, the Asscher. Her designs are a celebration of geometry and strong lines, emphasized by the black and white color contrast that intensifies the brilliance of the diamonds. Her first collection, Luminescence, honored the importance of time spent charging in stillness and the energy that comes after rest.
In her research, she dove into the depths of dark waters, inspired by the bioluminescent marine organisms that live in the deep and light up as they move. The spiny edges of octagonal knuckle-duster rings and angular, flattened chain are picked out with diamond pave accents, while elsewhere, flashes of brushed white gold and diamonds adorn the ear in a self-assured power play for the quietly confident. The latest in a long line of independent, entrepreneurial women, Shouq channels feminine power into her jewels, creating pieces that don't need to shout to make their presence felt.
Elsewhere, stones with different meanings come together in dangle necklaces and solitaire chains, allowing the wearer to customize their stack to include authentic pieces with personal relevance. The thread linking it all together, is a commitment to craftsmanship, for jewelry made by hand in Turkey with the help of master artisans. We sat down together, to talk Brutalism, black gold and the ultimate style inspiration.
Why are you especially drawn to geometric themes?
I’m drawn to geometry and strong lines because of the attention they command. I’ve noticed consecutive curves are easy on the eye and flow without stopping, but when there is a sharp angle it forces you to stop and see why these two lines meet. You can see these lines and angles in Brutalist architecture, from which I get most of my inspiration.
You come from a family of strong women. How has this influenced your work?
I’ve been working for more than a decade in fashion with my mother. Her creativity and drive for her brand inspired me to pursue my passion for jewelry. She always told me not to be afraid of failing, but to be afraid of not trying.
“ You can see these lines and angles in Brutalist architecture, from which I get most of my inspiration. “
What is it about the contrast between white diamonds and black rhodium that appeals to you?
The juxtaposition of sparkling diamonds against brushed black gold gives the diamond the perfect frame from which to shine. I’ve always loved the raw nature of diamonds when they are unearthed in kimberlite. The brushed black gold mimics that with polished diamonds.
Which pieces of your own jewelry are you wearing right now?
I often find myself reaching out for my hypnosis rings. They're so easy to wear and stack with other pieces of jewelry I have. I love seeing the way they coil around my fingers.
Who - real or imagined - would you like to see wearing your jewelry?
I would actually love to see my jewelry worn by Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. She exudes effortless chic and will forever be my biggest style inspiration.