In conversation withFernando Jorge
Fernando Jorge stands apart from the crowd, for his vibrant use of color and the sensual curves of his designs that combine to create a distinctive laid-back glamour. This Brazilian designer studied at London's Central Saint Martins School of Art and his aesthetic is a perfect blend of Brazilian flamboyance and British refinement. His sense of movement finds joyful expression in rings that dance up the fingers and oversized hoop earrings. Released in 2021 to critical acclaim, the Flame collection reinterprets the flicker of fire as custom link bracelets encircle the wrist and tongues of gold and citrine fire climb the ear.
For Aubade, Fernando explained how he marries traditional craft with resolutely modern style, the importance of sustainability, and why we will never see a straight line in his jewelry.
You were born in Brazil but trained in London. To what extent does your homeland inspire your jewelry?
My designs are my way to express the things I love and I regularly go to Brazil to get inspired by reconnecting with my roots, as well as my family and friends. A lot of my inspiration comes from jewelry history and the precious materials I work with, however the aesthetic of my work is my perception of Brazil as an effortlessly sensual, elegant yet exuberant country, with a natural sense of rhythm and movement. I also pay tribute in my choices of using Brazilian materials and craftsmanship as much as possible, as well as supporting important causes such as the preservation of the Amazon and its communities.
Are you more drawn to form or color?
I must say my sense of color comes naturally to me, in an instinctive way. I feel very attracted to materials in their natural state and the variety and uniqueness we can find in gemstones is fascinating. I have a preference for tonal combinations and how one material reveals different qualities when next to another. In designing the Flame collection specifically, I found myself drawn to gemstones that are native to Brazil, such as citrine, amethyst and rose quartz. As a child, I would collect these precious minerals, and working with them brought back such happy memories for me.
“ The aesthetic of my work is my perception of Brazil as an effortlessly sensual, elegant yet exuberant country, with a natural sense of rhythm and movement. “
How do you marry traditional techniques with contemporary design?
Our Gleam Rings are a fascinating piece where the traditional stone carving technique is used in Brazil to create the smooth, curved shape of each stone, and the overall design of the ring may look contemporary. Although the piece may appear more modern and unique, it also has a timely timelessness to it. Something that I focus on across all jewelry in my collections.
Your jewelry carries a certain sensuality. Who do you have in mind while you're designing?
I keep in mind that jewels are meant to sit on the body and move along with it. The observation that there are no perfectly straight lines on the human body sparked a particular sensibility within me, resulting in the curved and sensual look of my work. To add to this, a rule of my designing is that in order for a sketch to become a piece of jewelry, it must be intriguing and experimental, something that cannot exist simply on a piece of paper. This is when I feel the need to make it into an object so it can be fully resolved when placed on the body.
How important are sustainable practices to your work?
Very, and we are always looking at ways to further our sustainability and traceability efforts. We are very mindful of where materials come from and how they are sourced, and work closely with conscious organizations whose responsible practices we have confidence in. We have also partnered with initiatives such as Idesam, an NGO focused on directly mitigating the impact of the fires in the Amazon Forest and deforestation.